How to Clean Resin and Microcement Floors — Safely, Streak-Free

Resin and microcement: modern surfaces, simple maintenance

Resin floors — epoxy or polyurethane — and microcement floors have become a frequent design choice in recent renovations in Lugano. The advantages are well known: a continuous surface with no joints, no mould, contemporary aesthetics. Maintenance is simpler than parquet or marble, but there's one point you can't get wrong: no aggressive products. A well-treated resin floor lasts fifteen-to-twenty years; a resin floor cleaned with industrial degreaser "because it looked dirty" loses its protective layer within months.

Knowing your floor

"Resin" surfaces aren't all the same, and identifying the finish helps in choosing the right product. Epoxy resin is rigid and shiny, common in industrial and modern residential spaces; it resists scratches and is chemically stable. Polyurethane resin is more elastic, matte or glossy, and behaves better where there are thermal expansions (professional kitchens, heated rooms). Microcement is a cement mortar with added resins applied in thin layers: industrial appearance, finish slightly rough to the touch. Self-levelling resin is laid where uniform thickness is needed — common in cellars and garages.

If unsure, the person who installed the floor always has the right reference, and their company typically supplies a recommended maintenance kit for the specific product.

Daily routine

Monthly deep clean

For heavily-used floors — entrances, kitchens, meeting rooms — a monthly deep clean keeps the finish like new. Start with the vacuum as always, then move to a resin-specific detergent like Kerakoll Cleaner, Mapei Microclean or Eco-Resin Cleaner, dosed to the manufacturer's instructions (typically 50–100 ml in 5 L of water). Rinse with clean water to remove any residue and let dry with a cloth or naturally. These detergents have surfactants calibrated to clean without attacking the resin sealer: that's their advantage over a generic cleaner.

Stubborn stains

Oil or grease stains should be blotted immediately (never rubbed) with absorbent paper, then cleaned with warm water and neutral soap on a cloth. For stains already dried, a paste of baking soda and water left for thirty minutes and removed does the job in most cases. Wine, coffee or fruit-juice stains follow the same logic: blot at once, clean with water and neutral soap, and use the baking-soda paste for residue. Marker or paint stains call for 70% alcohol applied to the cloth (never poured directly on the resin), gentle motions, and immediate rinsing so the solvent doesn't sit on the surface.

What never to do

Refresh sealing

Every 3–5 years a well-used resin floor benefits from a refresh sealing that renews its surface protection. Start with a deep clean, apply the product recommended by the original manufacturer (Kerakoll Wax, Mapei Sealer and the like), spread with a microfibre cloth or pad in an even layer, and wait twenty-four hours before walking on it. Material cost is around CHF 30–60 for 10–15 m² of coverage.

For microcement floors the work is more delicate — the higher porosity and the cement binder require specific products and timings, and it's better to rely on the original installer or a specialist contractor.

When you need a professional

Prevention: small habits, long life

Prevention on resin flooring resembles parquet quite closely, even though resin is more tolerant. Doormats at the entrance of a good size cut down the sand brought by shoes by 50% — the single most effective factor. Felt pads under heavy furniture prevent scratches from movement, and chairs with sharp metal feet need protective pads if you don't want to see recurring marks in the same positions. Drying spilled liquids immediately remains the golden rule even though resin doesn't absorb them.

On underfloor heating, resin handles it well, but it's worth avoiding extreme heating-cooling cycles (turning off abruptly from +30 °C to +18 °C creates thermal stress). Ambient humidity isn't as critical as for parquet, but 40–60% remains the sweet spot for any indoor finish.

Microcement: small differences

Microcement is a cement-based resin, so more porous than pure resin. All the suggestions above apply, with three additional cautions: sealing needs to happen more often (every 2–3 years instead of 3–5), vinegar is forbidden even diluted because the cement binder reacts, and oil stains absorb faster, so the baking-soda poultice becomes the main tool for persistent stains. As always, when in doubt, do a test in a hidden area before applying a new product.